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The South Pacific

 

The area extending from Dominical to the Osa Peninsula all the way to the Panamanian border on the Pacific coast is called the South Pacific. The spectacular Corcovado National Park, Drake's Bay and Isla del Caño are a few of this areas salient features.

South Pacific
South Pacific

A new international airport intended to boost tourism in this region of Costa Rica will be constructed in the community of Sierpe at the entrance to the Osa Peninsula or in Palmar Sur, the Coordinador General de Aeropuertos announced recently. The government expects the airport, whatever its exact location, to invigorate the entire region. The government wants to promote economic, commercial and mostly tourism development. Once the airport is built here, more people will come, just like what happened when Daniel Oduber Airport was built in Liberia, Guanacaste.

Another exciting development designed to improve the area's infrastructure is the construction of the new 28-mile stretch of the coastal highway between Quepos and Dominical scheduled to start in 2006. It will have three and four lanes in some places and a bike path. Once this stretch is completed, more people will come to the area and property values will increase, so now is a good time to invest.

Dominical, located 46 kilometers (30 miles) south of Quepos, is a tiny laid-back resort town surrounded by some of the most breathtaking coastal scenery Costa Rica has to offer. The beautiful Barú River winds its way down from the surrounding mountains and empties into the sea at the north end of town.

This area is reminiscent of California's Big Sur because of its spectacular coastline and towering mountains that meet the sea. Dominical is also famous for its long beach, spectacular shoreline, mountain backdrop, panoramic views and excellent surfing. One of the area's claims to fame is that it was used as a backdrop to shoot the 1996 Sport's Illustrated swim suite issue.

Spectacular Playa Dominical
Spectacular Playa Dominical

There are unlimited options for adventure and sight-seeing in this pristine area of Costa Rica. Several spectacular jungle waterfalls are found here. Pozo Azul is a 30-foot waterfall close to the village of Dominicalito. The Barú River Falls, also known as Santo Cristo or Nauyaca Falls, is located in the mountains above Dominical. This series of waterfalls is considered one of the most picturesque in Costa Rica, if not all of Central America. It cascades down into a huge natural pool that is 20 feet deep and perfect for swimming. The surrounding area is verdant rainforest with abundant wildlife. The mountains between Dominical and Ojochal are filled with dozens of smaller waterfalls. Some properties in this area have their own private waterfall.

The town of Dominical is less developed than the beaches in the Central Pacific area, but this is changing quickly. Dominical itself is a small laid-back town with an unpaved main street, which runs right down to the ocean. On either side of the street are a few restaurants and bars, such as the San Clemente Bar and Grill, some of which offer limited entertainment. Much like Montezuma, this town attracts those seeking an alternative lifestyle. It is not unusual to see people practicing the Oriental art of tai chi or yoga on the beach. Dominical is a charming little town with friendly people who say hello and greet you with smiles.

Land prices are lower than the Quepos-Manuel Antonio area but are rising fast. There are large homes with incredible views that cost in the hundreds of thousands of dollars dotting the steep hills above the beach. Many expatriates have started businesses or are buying land in the area.

Dominicalito Beach has calm water for swimming. Spectacular views of the coastline may be seen from nearby Punta Dominical.

Just nine miles to the south of Dominical is Uvita. A smaller and slower-paced town than Dominical with a good swimming beach. At low tide you can walk out to the point the shape of a whale's tail. Many foreigners live in the hills above Punta Uvita, just as they do in Dominical. The setting with mountains in the background is very similar to Dominical. The highway was just paved from Dominical all the way to Palmar Norte, making this once virgin part of the coast very accessible. Prices are still affordable and there are plenty of mountainside homes and lots with spectacular views. We have a friend who just purchased a beautiful mountaintop home overlooking the beach.

Some of the activities available in the Uvita area are kayaking, snorkeling, horseback riding, waterfall and jungle hikes, beachcombing and a lot more.

Just to the south of Uvita is the new South Pacific Hospitality Center and South Pacific Real Estate Services office. They are about 200 meters south of the new shopping complex. The people there will answer any of your questions about the area and give you a free orientation.

The Tortuga/Ojochal/Cinco Ventanas area is also suited for living. Ojochal, about 20 miles south of Dominical, is a quaint country village with a nice mixture of ticos, French-Canadians and other foreigners. The town is set offf the highway and easy to miss. The village has a surprising number of excellent restaurants owned by locals from all over the world. Exotica Restaurant, virtually in the middle of the jungle, has some of the best cuisine I have ever tasted in all of my travels. The owners are French Canadian and really take pride in the gourmet food they prepare. The Manglar Sur is a restaurant on a houseboat in this area and serves food that is just as good. The clients on my tours have eaten at both of these restaurants and say the food is as good as you'll find in any first-class restaurant back home.

Although this area is somewhat off the beaten track, DirectTV and other forms of entertainment are available. The members of this community are tight-knit and share many joint activities together. Annie Drake, a local tour expert and resident says, There is something happening almost every night here. There is a pot luck dinner, party or get-together'once or twice a week.

Steep coastal mountains with tropical rainforest serve as a backdrop for this beautiful part of the country. The area's popularity is growing as word spreads about all the natural wonders it has to offer. The beach at Cinco Ventanas got it's name because of five spectacular 50-foot, tunnel-like blow holes in the rocks. This beach is truly a work of nature and has to be seen to be believed. Playa Tortuga, Playa Hermosa and Playa Ballena are other spectacular beaches in the area.

Area activities include good fishing, snorkeling, boat and river tours, bird watching, horseback riding, kayaking and boat trips to Caño Island and nearby Drake Bay. You can even watch whales and see turtles lay their eggs on the beach.

Land prices in this area of Costa Rica start at about $100,000 per acre depending on the proximity to the beach.

San Isidro de El General, a half-hour inland from Dominical and located along the Pan-American Highway, offers a warm climate and inexpensive housing. It is considered the fastest-growing city in Central America. Monte General is the city's new shopping mall. It has a Megasuper supermarket, Universal department store, three movie screens, nine restaurants in a food court, a Scotia Bank, 60 stores and 220 parking spaces. The mall is the anchor for the large Monte General residential community adjacent to it.

Downtown San Isidro del General
Downtown San Isidro del General

San Isidro is off the beaten path, but some foreigners make this small city their permanent home. Real estate is reasonably priced in comparison with some of the areas in the Central Valley. There are many ocean-view properties in the mountains along the highway between San Isidro and Dominical.

Despite being small and laid back, Puerto Jiménez is the largest town on the Osa Peninsula. It has a population of about 6,000. During the gold rush, 1980s Puerto Jiménez resembled a town out of the Wild West. Nowadays thing have calmed down and the town has become popular with the backpacking set, surfers, lovers of adventure tourism and devotees of ecotourism. Its location on the Golfo Dulce Puerto Jiménez and its environs makes perfect for snorkeling, scuba diving and kayaking. One of the nearby attractions is Corcovado National Park. National Geographic claims it is one of two places in the word with the most biological diversity.

There are a few expats living in and around Puerto Jiménez. With the exception of a few small hotels, bars, restaurants, Internet services and public transportation, there is not much infrastructure found here. The roads are in very bad shape.

San Isidro is the Largest City in Southern Costa Rica
San Isidro is the Largest City in Southern Costa Rica

Some expatriates live around the port of Golfito on Golfo Dulce Bay. The town is sort of drab and somewhat abandoned. However, the surrounding scenery is beautiful. There are several restaurants and gringo hangouts in town where you can strike up a conversation with local expats. Sport fishing and surfing attract many tourists to this area. As one local foreign resident points out, The town does have basic services like banks, a hospital, courthouse, a couple of supermarkets, butchers and doctor's offices. Transportation is decent with a small airfield ferry transportation to Puerto Jiménez and Zancudo and plenty of taxis and buses. Panama is not far away and a great place to find good shopping.

Golfito started out as a banana port but was abandoned when the United Fruit Company closed down its operation. Over the years, the government has made attempts to help the local economy. In 1990 it opened the Depósito Libre or Free Trade Zone. Many ticos make the long journey to Golfito since appliances and other items may be purchased for much less than in San José. Foreign residents and tourists with a passport can also purchase an ample variety of goods at the duty-free warehouses.

Plans call for a world-class marina and condo complex that will improve infrastructure and change the face of this area. Local residents have a lot to be excited about. The Costa Rican Tourism Institute (ICT) and the Commission for Marinas approved the installation of two marinas in the southern Pacific port of Golfito. The Banana Bay Marina will have 16 slips and the Bahía Escondida or Golfito Marina will have 217 slips for boats up to 150 feet. This marina will have a hotel, stores, two restaurants, a health club, a yacht club, 84 condominiums with prices ranging from $300,000 to $800,000 and 280 residential units. The ICT approval is long awaited and a big boost for the economy of the struggling port town of Golfito.

Because of this some people expect the Golfito area and the town of Puerto Jiménez to be the sites of the next land boom in Costa Rica. The ICT also considers the Puerto Jiménez area suitable for a future marina project.

Playa Zancudo (mosquito beach in Spanish), a slow-paced beach community about 20 kilometers south of Golfito, is home to some foreigners. However, you'll need about two-hours to make the drive over an unpaved road. During the rainy season you will need a four-wheel-drive-vehicle. Some foreigners come only for the winter months while others live in the area year-round. Several bars and open-air restaurants serve as gathering places for expats. Zancudo's uncrowded beach has gentle surf and is very good for swimming. Medium-priced housing may be found here.

Jim, our friend from Baltimore, makes this town his winter home. He has built a small house and even has DirectTV. When he leaves to go back to work in the United States, he has a caretaker oversee his home.

Pavones, 40 kilometers south of Golfito, is a surfer's mecca, renowned for having the longest left-breaking waves in the world. The surrounding scenery is down-right spectacular. Surfers from all over the world are attracted to this area. Everything including the nightlife revolves around the surfing scene. Numerous North Americans and foreigners own large fincas (ranches or farms) in this area while others live in the more isolated areas. Our Costa Rican dentist, a sometimes surfer, has a vacation home in Pavones. Because of the excellent surf some say Pavones has the potential to become another Jacó.

From "The New Golden Door to retirement and Living in Costa Rica" by Christopher Howard.
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